The Lovely Lac La Biche

History of the Region

Lac La Biche is a lake and region with a long and storied past.  First Nations peoples have lived on the shores of this great lake for thousands of years.  Projectile points found have been identified as between 9000 BC and 8000 BC. Many more projectile points have been found from that time to the present.  For an in depth and very informative read, please check out publication Lac La Biche Chronicles: The Early Years. Lakeland Interpretive Society, Johnson, G. A. (2016).

Lac La Biche is one of Alberta’s oldest settled communities. Although the First Nations in the area today are predominantly Cree and Chipewyan, it was not always so. Beaver, Sarcee, Sekani, and Blackfoot peoples inhabited the Lac La Biche area before being displaced by Chipewyan and Cree peoples moving in from the north and east in advance of the fur trade. Portage College is home to the Museum of Aboriginal Peoples’ Art and Artifacts. Exhibits feature Inuit and Indigineous art.  The original pieces by Alex Janvier are breathtaking. This coupled with their Native Arts program provide an excellent overview. Check out their website at www.portagecollege.ca for more information.

David Thompson was the first European explorer to record a trip to Lac La Biche and confirm its existence. Thompson built Red Deers Lake House and spent the winter of 1798-99 at Lac La Biche. Although Thompson left in the spring of 1799 and would not return for a dozen years, he paved the way for other explorers, fur traders, and free traders who eventually visited or settled the area. One notable explorer was Peter Fidler of the Hudson’s Bay Company, who built Greenwich House at Lac La Biche. Find out more by visiting the Lac La Biche Museum at www.laclabichemuseum.com.

The Lac La Biche Mission is a National and Provincial Historic Site located approximately 10 km west of the hamlet of Lac La Biche.  It was created by a religious order, the Oblates of Mary Immaculate.  They were founded in France in 1816 by the Rev. Charles Joseph Eugene du Mazenod (later Bishop of Marseilles). The first two Oblates to travel to Western Canada were Rev. Father P. Aubert and Brother Alexandre Taché. The Oblates first established the mission of Notre Dame des Victoires in 1853, before moving it to its present location on the shore of Lac la Biche in 1855. It eventually became one of the most important Oblate missions in Western Canada, serving as the main supply depot for all Catholic missions in the North West. For the full history of the Lac La Biche Mission and the Notre Dame des Victoires, visit www.laclabichemission.com.

Geography of the Lake

Of all the larger lakes in Alberta, the Lac La Biche ranks seventh-largest, covering an area of 234 km² or 90 sq mi with a maximum depth of 70 feet.  There are many shallow areas and moving underwater sandbars caused by the strong prevailing wind action.  Banks facing north and west are often beaten by strong waves, causing erosion and an ever-changing shoreline.  Lac La Biche had 190 km of shoreline to explore.

Water flows into the lake from the Lac La Biche Watershed. This is a catch basin of approximately 4,370 square kilometers located to the north-east of the lake, primarily located within Lac La Biche County. The Lac La Biche Watershed drains into Lac La Biche, which then drains into the La Biche River. The La Biche River then flows into the Athabasca River, north to the Arctic.

Lac La Biche is a designated bird sanctuary, receiving this designation in 1920. More than 75% of Alberta’s bird species can be found in the Lakeland region.  Species such as bald eagles, great grey herons, grebes, common loons, mallards, pelicans, double-breasted cormorants are just a few that make themselves at home here.

Lac La Biche is home to the only island provincial park, Sir Winston Churchill Park. It is Alberta’s only campable island park, making it a haven for paddling, beach days, birding, fishing, and boating. An old-growth forest covers Big Island, where you will find hiking trails and a boardwalk wind through 300-year-old birch trees. The other islands in Lac La Biche are contained within the park boundaries: Black Fox, Currant and Birch and several unnamed islands. For information on Sir Winston Churchill Park, visit www.albertaparks.ca. The hamlet of Lac La Biche is located on the southern shore of the lake. There are other small communities located near the lake:  Plamondon, Owl River and the now nonexistent Barnegat. For more information on amenities available within Lac La Biche County, visit www.laclabichecounty.com.

Family Ties

My family has strong ties to the area.  All eight of my great-grandparents settled in the region, some in nearby Donatville, Atmore and Breynat. They would frequent the town for supplies and tack.

Two years back, my sister and I decided to paddle from each boat launch on the Lac La Biche. As she lives on an acreage near LLB and I work in Plamondon, we frequently would canoe in the evening.

We completed that goal in one summer.  After doing this, we realized that if we changed our process by leaving a vehicle at our in and out points, we could cover more territory and connect all the portions we had already completed.  In essence, canoeing around the lake in a twelve-month period. 

We completed this goal with a giant paddle from Golden Sands boat launch to Sir Winston Churchill Island late last July. The wind crept up after lunchtime, making for navigation challenges.

Paddling Tips

Armed with this first-hand knowledge, we put together a list of launch points that have public access.  Each excursion was different.  The terrain around the lake varies from location to location.  The northern shore along with the mouths of the La Biche and Owl Rivers teem with water fowl.  Nesting sites for great grey heron,  sighting a golden eagle and the multitude of pelicans were definite highlights.

Weather changes rapidly on this lake, with the majority of wind coming from the north/northwest.  Keep your eye on the sky for building thunderheads. 

We never strayed too far from shore, as conditions can change.  Also watch and listen for motorized watercraft around Churchill.  We are almost swamped on one excursion.

Our Launch Sites

Here is the list of access points on Lac La Biche starting on the south shore right in town, working clockwise.  I have included the longitude and latitude. Some sites were visited two years ago, so my commentary may not reflect current conditions.  Happy paddling.

1. Big Dock (54.770726, -111.987942): This is not accurately named, as it is the site of the former Big Dock.  Float planes used to anchor here. Now it is home to a small pier.  It is conveniently located right off downtown Lac La Biche.  Paved access, but gravel site. The site needed more gravel and grading as there were puddles in the parking lot.  Not lots of parking. May need to park vehicles on the street. No washrooms.  LLB County operated launch.
2. Macagno’s Point (54.834385, -112.116010): Located approximately 20 km west of Lac La Biche on the Old Trail.  The Old Trail is a paved road that runs east/west connecting Lac La Biche to Plamondon.  It follows the lake shore, is windy, and there are ample opportunities to view wildlife. Follow the speed limit as deer like to cross the road at all points. Turn north on RR145.  RR145 is gravel.  There is a cool eroding cliff on the west side of the launch. Outhouses are present, which is a huge plus.  We gained access to a cool historical unmarked/unmaintained lakeside trail. We met some local elders here.  One informed us that this site used to be known as Modine’s Point, as this was the last name of the family that used to own the property. We still refer to it as that. This is my favourite launch because of the awesome experiences we had here. If you launch and head east, you will be able to view the historical lac La Biche Mission site from the water.  The church was recently reroofed.  It glows in a certain light.  LLB County operated launch.
3. Old Trail (54.859845, -112.222269): Access to this boat launch is gained on the Old Trail about halfway between the Lac La Biche Mission and Plamondon. This site had double docks, a massive picnic shelter and washroom facilities with power and running water. The entire site is paved. The locals use this site to do burnouts. There is lots of parking.  Lots of money was spent here. LLB County operated launch.
4. Bay View (54.875985, -112.282742): This is a small, functional launch. Big ruts alongside launch. Not a lot of parking. I bottomed out my car crossing to park. No port-a-potties. LLB County operated launch.
5. Campsite Road approx (54.9092778, -112.2972304): Travel north on Highway 858 through Plamondon. Turn east on Campsite Road and travel approximately 5km.  No signage. This is a very plain, graveled lot with a steeply graded launch. Nothing visually appealing about this site.  Paddling north from this launch will get you to the mouth of the La Biche River.  We have not ventured onto the river yet.  We understand it is best to do so in June or July.  Water levels drop and there are rocks that make their appearance after that. LLB County operated launch.
6. Blais Resort (54.9325449, -112.1401870): Access gained by following hwy 858 north of Plamondon. There is a stretch of gravel of about 17km which can have quite questionable conditions if it has recently rained.  Access can be gained from the east through LLB, as well. That route is all paved around the north end of the lake. Gravel launch site. It was well maintained. No out houses. This site had signage about LLB being a bird sanctuary.  This is not posted at all launches.  Paddling west from this launch will also bring you to the mouth of the La Biche River.  LLB County operated launch.
7. Poplar Point (54.8282012, -112.0903911): Follow hwy 858 to Range Road 144.  Turn south. Travel about 5 km on a paved road right to the lake.  Other construction was happening when we visited this site.  We think washrooms and a picnic shelter were under construction. The grade was rather steep to launch.  Ample parking, but up that steep grade.  We understand that this area is popular with anglers. Money was spent here. We paddled out to the small unnamed island directly south of this launch one summer. The lake was so calm that day. On the paddle back, small swells were pushing us to shore.  It was quite the sensation.  If you paddle east of this launch, you will be able to access the Owl River.  LLB County operated launch.
8. Range Road 142 (54.893369, -112.040019): Travel on HWY 858. Turn south on Range Road 142. Travel 5 km south on gravel road to the dead end sign.  The road allowance is cleared down to the lake, but is not vehicle friendly.  It is not graveled or graded.  It is a grass trail.  Access to the lake can be gained here.  Be prepared for soggy toes.  Not a launch, just a public access point. I will state it again, not a launch. We saw a golden eagle perched high in the trees here.  Now that is one big predator.
9. Owl River Launch (54.9214319, -111.9632192):  Travelling on highway 858, turn north on RR 134A. This site was under development when we visited it.  Washrooms were being built.  The site is now open to the public. This was our first river paddle. If you launch and head south, you will paddle into the Lac La Biche.  Head north and be prepared to paddle and pole.  We paddled this in August 2021.  Water levels were down.  We saw a belted Kingfisher here. A first for us. We were paddling against the current, but it was not that challenging.  The river winds back and forth.  We paddled until we came to a really shallow stretch.  We found lots of cool river clams here. 
10. North Shore (54.8077769, -111.8994755): If travelling from Plamondon on Highway 858, it turns into highway 881 after the Conklin turnoff.  This launch is located on hwy 881 about half a km south of the Conklin turnoff.  There is a long gravel road to launch. It has a great view of the lake as you drive down.  I witnessed a small black bear on this stretch.  There are no outhouses. There was no signage on 881 from the south, only the north.  I went past the entrance and had to do a u-turn in heavy traffic. This is the only launch we left our green canoe at, where it almost got jacked. Two more minutes and it would have been gone. LLB County operated launch.
11. Golden Sands (54.944819, -111.896530): Take highway 881 north through Lac La Biche. Turn left into Gold Sands development.  There was poor signage once off the highway. We made some extra travel for no reason.  The site is much the same as Blais resort.  No outhouses. Minimal parking. LLB County operated launch.
12. Sir Winston Churchill Park (54.8187675, -111.9425005):  Travel 3 km north on Highway 881 through Lac La Biche.  Turn left onto Provincial Park/Churchill Park Road. The boat launch is located on the first right on Long Island, just before the Park entrance. Gravel parking and launch.  This is a busy launch.  Plenty of  parking. There are outhouses with hand sanitizer.  This is the only launch where we almost witnessed a physical altercation as someone needed to tie down every single thing on their boat and vehicle before moving out of the way for the next guy.  This area is popular with pleasure boaters.  We were almost swamped in this stretch. This is also the launch we completed our paddle around LLB adventure at. As wind usually comes in from the north/northwest. The area along the causeway is typically sheltered by the wind.  We paddle here when we just have to get on the water no matter how crappy the wave conditions are. This is an Alberta Government operated site.
13. Sunset Bay (54.7989482, -111.9321368): Travel 2 km north on Highway 881 through Lac La Biche.  Turn left. The site is much the same as Golden Sands and Blais resort.  No outhouses. Minimal parking. LLB County operated launch.

If you do not have a canoe or kayak, Off Road Rentals has some available for rent downtown Lac La Biche, by the Paul Richard Spray Park.

We hope that our first-hand experience paddling around the Lac La Biche lake encourages new and seasoned paddlers to venture out.  As always, keep the following in mind each time you head out:

1. Stay safe.
2. Do not go out in crappy conditions
3. Tell a friend when heading out and an estimated time of return.
4. Make sure you have all your safety gear and it works (bale bucket, rope, whistle)
5. Wear that life jacket.

Happy paddling from the Silly Sisters. Thanks for reading our Greenbean Adventures.